The best of August

Caitlin's new book about UFOs. Andy is a nonbeliever.

Arrivederci, August. It was a hell of a month. We went through some trying times (and some ungodly climates), but I think we both emerged as stronger, healthier people. Amazing to recall how far we've come, and how much we've seen and done. Amazing to know we've made some great friends, we have an awesome apartment, and that we actually live in Rome. Amazing to think that in about 90 percent of situations, we have no idea what we're doing. Truly amazing.

I had a wonderful 29th birthday yesterday, and I told Caitlin it was my favorite day in Rome so far. We spent an hour at a cafe, bought some new books at the neighborhood bookstore and took a picnic lunch to Villa Sciarra, the smaller of our nearby parks. The weather cooperated, dropping to about 80. It was downright pleasant (and, later that night, cold! Caitlin had to wear a sweater! I thought it'd never happen!). Then we connected with a trio of Caitlin's teacher friends for a nice dinner (at the same cafe we had visited that morning, apparently). A toy dancing cat was nearly purchased, until the teachers realized Shania Twain's lyrics are not appropriate for 8-year-olds. Mesmerizing moves, though. Later, we invited our friends over for drinks and a slice of cake, expertly baked by Ms. Vallerga. All in all, a very chill day, punctuated by another thrilling season opener by Chicago's Big Ten Team!

Oh, and we wrote a song together. The little white plastic cups (seen above) are ubiquitous in Rome. No one simply drinks Coke out of a can or a bottle; you need a plastic cup, or at the very least a straw. We think it's funny. But then again, the cups come in handy when splitting a small bottle of wine at a picnic. So here's our song, sung to the tune of "Red Solo Cup":

          White plastic cup
          we fill you up
          with vino rosso!
          with vino rosso!


Here are some August highlights:

• Latest bedtime: 3 a.m. That's right, ladies and gents: Ms. Vallerga stayed up until 3 a.m. with our fellow language learners on a random Tuesday. A new record for Caitlin, who claims she really wasn't even all that tired. (Maybe it was the gelato?)

• Favorite hang-out spot (Grand prize): The rooftop on Jessica J's apartment. Great views of the city. Great spot for a snack and some vino. Thanks for the hook-up, Jessica.

• Favorite hang-out spot (2nd place): The steps at Piazza Trilusso, 200 steps from our door and a great spot to sit, drink and people-watch.

• Favorite hang-out spot (honorable mention): The mall! This is embarrassing, but accurate. Let me put this another way: I hate malls. Can't stand the muzak, the perfume-y smells, the ridiculous costs, the food court options. Just not my thing. But in 100-degree heat, you go where the A/C is. So we went to the mall. On a weekly basis. Plus, Ikea!

• Favorite appliance (Andy): Oscillating fan

• Favorite appliance (Caitlin): Drying rack

• Least favorite appliance (both): Dehumidifier

• Top neighborhood merrymakers (tie): The dancing cat and the Guarda! magician (a somewhat entertaining jester who has an unmistakable voice that carries for at least 5 kilometers. We hear him imploring crowds to Guarda! Guarda! Guarda! pretty much everyday.)

• Best get-away location: Moneglia, a small town just past the Cinque Terre. Not nearly as well known as the CT towns, but 15 minutes away and much cheaper. Clean beach, nice hotel (Mondial), fun hikes to jumping-off rocks. (Which, btw, I believe "Jumping off rocks into water" made Jack's Pyramid of Greatness). Just behind Moneglia are Santa Marinella (on the coast) and Lago Bracciano, both of which are under an hour (and 5 euros) away.

• Weirdest noise we still can't figure out: The cannon that goes off Saturdays at noon.

• Best spot to get lost: Villa Pamphili, the huge park right up the hill from Trastevere. Half an hour in this park, and you'll forget you're in a city. It feels downright forested. Fountains, fields, benches and water spouts by the dozen. Not to mention to exquisitely manicured grounds of the centuries-old villa.

OK, that about sums it up. It really has been an amazing August. Thanks for all the messages and thoughts. Here's to a stupendous September.